Nancy: The City of Golden Gates and Art Nouveau Dreams

Nestled in the Lorraine region, Nancy is a city of two distinct and captivating faces. On one hand, you have the magnificent 18th-century classical architecture of its UNESCO World Heritage squares, a testament to the vision of a Polish king. On the other, you find an explosion of the sinuous lines and natural forms of the Art Nouveau movement, which left an indelible mark on the city. This unique blend makes Nancy a truly fascinating destination for any traveler.

A Royal Legacy: The UNESCO World Heritage Squares

Your journey through Nancy must begin at Place Stanislas. Often hailed as one of the most beautiful squares in the world, this grand space is a masterpiece of 18th-century urban planning. Commissioned by Stanislas Leszczynski, the last Duke of Lorraine and former king of Poland, the square was designed to link the medieval old town with the new city.

The square is a spectacle of symmetry and grandeur, bordered by stately buildings like the City Hall and the Fine Arts Museum. Its most iconic features are the elaborate gilded wrought-iron gates and fountains, crafted by the master ironworker Jean Lamour. As you walk through the square, you'll feel a sense of history and grace, a feeling that only deepens as you pass through the triumphal arch, the Arc Héré, leading to the more serene Place de la Carrière and the tree-lined Place d'Alliance. Together, these three squares form a harmonious architectural ensemble that is truly a sight to behold.

The Birthplace of Art Nouveau

While the classical squares define its heart, Nancy's soul is Art Nouveau. At the turn of the 20th century, the city became a major center for this artistic movement, particularly through the collective known as the "École de Nancy" (Nancy School). Key figures like Émile Gallé, Louis Majorelle, and Jacques Grüber created a style that celebrated nature, craftsmanship, and a break from rigid, historical forms.

To fully appreciate this heritage, you must visit the Musée de l'École de Nancy, which is housed in a beautiful Art Nouveau villa and showcases furniture, glassware, and other decorative arts from the period. A walk through the city's streets reveals other treasures, such as the famous Villa Majorelle, the former home and studio of the furniture designer himself. Keep an eye out for the beautiful facades, wrought iron balconies, and stained-glass windows that adorn many buildings, particularly in the areas around Parc Sainte-Marie. Even the legendary Brasserie Excelsior, an Art Nouveau bistro, offers a chance to dine in a truly magnificent setting.

Beyond the Architectural Marvels

Nancy isn't just about its famous squares and architectural styles. The city's charm extends to its lively markets, peaceful parks, and rich cultural scene. The Parc de la Pépinière, located just off Place Stanislas, is a sprawling green space perfect for a relaxing stroll, with a rose garden, a small zoo, and a charming bandstand.

For food lovers, the Marché Central (covered market) is a must-visit, offering a vibrant array of local produce, cheeses, and regional specialties. And you can't leave Nancy without trying its famous macarons (the original, chewy version, not the Parisian kind!) and a slice of the classic quiche lorraine.

Nancy is a city that surprises and delights at every turn. It's a place where history and art coexist in a beautiful and harmonious way. Whether you're drawn to the golden gates of its royal past or the fluid, organic forms of its Art Nouveau legacy, Nancy is a destination that promises a memorable and enchanting experience.